Simple Understanding of Insulation

MOST HOMEOWNERS DON’T REALLY UNDERSTAND HOW IMPORTANT THE INSULATION IS NEEDED TO GIVE YOU COMFORT AND REDUCE THOSE ENERGY BILLS IN YOUR HOME. BELOW IS SOME SIMPLE INFO ON INSULATION.

HOW INSULATION WORKS

You need insulation in your home to provide resistance to heat flow. The more heat flow resistance your insulation provides, the lower your heating and cooling costs.
Heat flows naturally from a warmer to a cooler space. In the winter, this heat flow moves directly from all heated living spaces to adjacent unheated garages, basements, and even to the outdoors. Heat flow can also move indirectly through interior floors, walls and ceilings wherever there is a difference in temperature. During the cooling season, heat flows from the outdoors to the interior of a house.
To maintain comfort, the heat lost in the winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in the summer must be removed by your cooling system. Properly insulating your home will decrease this heat flow by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.
Insulation’s resistance to heat flow is measured or rated in terms of its thermal resistance or R-value.
HERE ARE THE BASIC CATEGORIES OF INSULATION

LOOSE FILL INSULATION
Insulation that is made out of small chunks of fibers. It is also known as blown in insulation because it is blown in with a blower, a giant vacuum cleaner that works in reverse.
BATT INSULATION
With batt insulation, insulative fibers are woven together to create a blanket of material. Batt insulation is available in 16 and 24 inch wide rolls usually in 8 ft. sections to fit standard spacing between the framing members in walls and ceiling joist. A paper or foil moisture barrier is installed on one side of this type of insulation which becomes the backing. The backing always is laid toward the inside of the house.
RIGID INSULATION
Insulative fibers that are tightly sandwiched together between 2 layers of foil, creating a solid insulative material that looks a lot like plywood. Rigid Insulation is usually installed in between roof sheathing and roof covering when no attic exists.
SPRAY FOAM
Spray Foam Insulation usually works in the most convoluted and irregular areas where normal insulation is hard to reach. Unfortunately this method usually only works if you have an open wall from remodeling or add on.
DIFFERENT INSULATION MATERIAL

FIBERGLASS INSULATION
Fiberglass Insulation is the most popular and most widely available type of insulation. You can purchase it as either batt style or loose filled. It’s one of the least expensive and the batts are easily installed. Its not flammable and resist water damage.
Fiber glass batt is spun from molten glass and sand into fibers and is an extremely effective insulating material because tiny pockets of air resist the flow of heat and cold.
Fiber glass loose filled insulation is an extremely effective insulating material because its fibers prevent air movement and the resulting heat loss to resist the flow of heat and cold. It is designed for use in attics and hard-to-reach locations such as corners, nooks and crannies. It is installed dry, and because it will not settle over time, maintains its full R-Value over the life of the home.
ROCK AND SLAG WOOL
Rock and Slag wool batt is similar to fiber glass except that it is spun from slag and other rock-like materials instead of molten glass. It is sometimes called mineral wool. Mineral wool insulation was among the earliest commercial insulation types.
Rock wool (or slag wool) loose filled insulation is similar to fiberglass except that it is spun from blast furnace slag (the layer of impurities that forms on the surface of molten metal) and other rock-like materials instead of molten glass. The production of rock wool uses by-products that would otherwise be put in a landfill. Rock Wool insulation is well suited for locations where it is difficult to install other types of insulation, such as irregularly shaped areas, around obstructions (such as plumbing stacks), and in hard-to-reach places. Blown-in loose fill insulation are particularly useful for retrofit situations because, except for the holes that are sometimes drilled for installations, they are one of the few materials that can be installed without disturbing existing finishes. Rock wool is installed dry, and because it will not settle over time, maintains its full R-Value over the life of the home.
CELLULOSE
Cellulose is made from ground-up newspapers. It is treated with fire retardants, some of which have been known to cause corrosion of wiring and pipes. The product settles significantly over time and must be over-installed to compensate for this settling. All loose-fill insulation are required to detail their installed and settled thickness on the bag label to let consumers know the expected settled R-Value. Cellulose is applied using a mechanical blowing machine. In an attic, cellulose is not typically installed above an R-30 because its weight can cause sagging of the drywall. Most energy codes now call for R-30 to R-60 in attics.
COTTON/DENIM
Made from cotton or recycled scrap denim there has been little independent testing done to look at the fire performance and moisture absorption of these products. Similar to cellulose insulation, these materials require the addition of fire retardant chemicals because they are combustible. Some fire retardants used in these products are know to cause corrosion of pipes and wiring.
THE R-VALUE OF INSULATION
R-value indicates an insulation’s resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness.
The R-value depends on the type of insulation and includes its material, thickness, and density. When calculating the R-value of a multi layered installation, add the R-values of the individual layers. Installing more insulation in your home increases the R-value and the resistance to heat flow.
The effectiveness of an insulation’s resistance to heat flow also depends on how and where the insulation is installed. For example, insulation that is compressed will not provide its full rated R-value. The overall R-value of a wall or ceiling will be somewhat different from the R-value of the insulation itself because some heat flows around the insulation through the studs and joists. Therefore, it’s important to properly install your insulation to achieve the maximum R-value.
The amount of insulation or R-value you’ll need depends on your climate, type of heating and cooling system, and the section of the house you plan to insulate.

BEFORE REPLACING OR ADDING INSULATION TO YOUR ATTIC YOU SHOULD DETERMINE WHETHER OR NOT YOU HAVE MOISTURE PROBLEMS. PROBLEMS WITH MOISTURE CAN BECOME WORSE WITH ADDING INSULATION. INSULATION CAN TRAP MOISTURE CAUSING MILDEW AND MOLD TO GROW AND SPREAD. IN ADDITION, WHEN WATER AND MOISTURE COLLECT IN THE ATTIC, IT CAN CAUSE STAINS AND ROT. BEFORE PUTTING IN ANY INSULATION, IT IS BEST TO SEAL ALL AIR LEAKS. THIS NOT ONLY HELPS MOISTURE, BUT ALSO REDUCES HEATING BILLS BY KEEPING COLD AIR FROM ENTERING THE HOME. YOU MAY NEED TO CONSIDER A RADIANT BARRIER.
RADIANT BARRIER
Radiant Barrier is nothing more than a light weight aluminum fabric that blankets the existing attic insulation. Radiant Barriers have hundreds of thousands of tiny holes that allow vapors to pass and prevent condensation from occuring at the ceiling level. These barriers also refelect heat from above during summer time, while at the same time holding on heat during the winter time. You install the barrier as a single sheet. Radiant barriers are not insulation, and by definition, have no R-value. However, there are some radiant barrier products that have entrapped air spaces (bubble pack or multilayer films) where an R-value may be available for the product. Testing has shown that it is more cost effective to add insulation than a radiant barrier.

Storing Your Lawn Equipment for the Winter

How many people actually maintain their lawn equipment and store them properly before the winter season hits. In this article, I will show you how to perform some common routine maintenance on your gas powered mowers, weed trimmers and spreaders to insure they will operate properly for next spring.
Mowers
Fill the gas tank on your mower just enough to complete the last mowing. Afterwards, run the mower until it runs out of gas. If gasoline is left in the tank all winter, it turns stale and collects water droplets from condensation. If to much gas is in the tank to run out, you can drain it or worst case, purchase some fuel stabilizer from your local auto parts store and add the recommended amount to your tank.
Next, clean grass clippings from the underside and on top of the mower deck. Drain the oil and remove the spark plug. Pour in a teaspoon of oil, crank the engine a few times to work it in and return the plug. Lubricate all moving parts, tighten loose screws and store the mower in a safe place. You should also clean and replace the air filter and add a new spark plug for your lawnmower as well.
Now is a good time to take the blade to a shop to be sharpened to avoid the spring rush.
Edgers and Trimmers
Clean off grass and other debris from your edger and line trimmer. Like your mower, run them until they’re out of gas (if they’re gas-powered) and disconnect the spark plug. Clean off any dirt and debris from your edger. Lubricate all moving parts and tighten any loose screws. Store it in a safe place until next spring.
If you have the new 4 cycle trimmer, follow the same procedure as your mower. Drain the oil and remove the spark plug. Pour in a teaspoon of oil, crank the engine a few times to work it in and return the plug.
Spreaders
After you fertilize the lawn in the fall, prepare your spreader for storage. Simply clean the spreader with a hose and spray off any remaining fertilizer particles, being sure to clean out the hopper and underneath the spreader. Wash your spreader with hot water to dissolve any caked-on material. When you’re done, wipe off excess water and let the spreader air dry. Next, oil bearings and any other sliding or rotating metal parts. On metal spreaders, wipe a thin coat of oil on the bottom of discharge ports.
If your basement or garage floor gets wet during the winter, raise the equipment onto a small platform made from boards or a sheet of 1/2-inch plywood laid over several lengths of 2×4.

Cleaning Your Stainless Steel Appliances

Stainless steel has become very popular in many households these days. If you have this metal alloy that has become popular for sinks and appliances, you have a great surface that doesn’t corrode or rust easily. Stainless steel is easy to sanitize and clean. It actually isn’t stain-proof, it simply stains less than other steel. Chemical residues, dirty water, and even hard water can leave stains and spots on stainless steel. It can also be dented and scratched fairly easily. Manufacturers are now offering new types of finishes that diminish scratching and fingerprints.
Anyone with an appliance with a stainless steel finish, such as a dishwasher, refrigerator or oven, likes to see a streak-free surface. Clean it properly, and you will have a beautiful result.
The following will be the Do’s and Don’ts when maintaining your appliances.
Do’s
Safest Way
One easy way to clean the exterior of a stainless steel appliance is with two soft, clean lint free cloths. A portion of the first cloth should be soaked with very hot water. Wipe a section of the surface with the hot, wet cloth and immediately dry the same spot with the dry cloth. Wipe in the direction of any polish lines and you should have a streak-free result. If there are significant stains, try adding a small amount of a mild soap to the water. Rinse the surface thoroughly with warm water and immediately dry it with a clean cloth. Some manufacturers recommend lightly wiping the surface with a water dampened microfiber cloth, followed by a dry polishing chamois.
Stainless Steel Cleaners.
Some Manufacturers recommend using a soft, non-abrasive stainless steel cleaner on the stainless steel finishes. Apply the cleaner with a soft 100% lint free cloth. All work should follow the direction of the grain, and better results are obtained by keeping the cloth in continuous contact with the metal.
If you’ve had staining or scratching, or need to polish your stainless steel, a stainless steel cleaner may be a good option. Some of these cleaners and polishes can help minimize scratching and remove stains. They also can polish stainless steel surfaces nicely. Read the directions on the stainless steel cleaner and test in an inconspicuous spot. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and towel dry.
Keeping that Shiny Look
Simple has its seems and works like a charm, Pledge wipes work the best on stainless steel and are great for quick touch ups. They also contain just the right amount of polish.
Don’ts
Do not use abrasive cleaners that will scratch the surface.
Depending on the surface finish of your stainless steel, abrasive cleaners can cause scratching.
Do not forget to rinse.
Gritty or dirty water, or residue from cleaning solutions left on a stainless steel surface can stain or damage the finish.
Do not use cleaners containing chlorine.
While it may be second nature to bleach everything, stainless steel and chlorine don’t mix. Stay away from the bleach when you clean stainless steel.
Do not use steel wool or steel brushes.
These products leave little particles in the surface of the steel and inevitably these particles begin rusting and staining the surface of the steel. They also can excessively scratch the surface of your stainless steel.
Do not assume it’s the cleaner.
If you do have some spotting or staining, and you’ve followed all of the rules, it may not be the cleaner. Water, especially hard water, can leave spotting and staining on stainless steel surfaces. Using distilled water or towel dry after rinsing can end the problem.
The info was gathered by Leahy’s Inspections. Providing quality inspections in Fort Worth, Arlington, Mansfield, Burleson, Joshua, Crowley, Everman, Rendon, Aledo, Benbrook, Cedar Hill, Grand Prairie, Midlothian, Dallas, Hurst, Euless and surrounding areas.

Preparing Your Fireplace Prior to Winter

With Winter around the corner, now is probably a good time to get that fireplace in shape for this season of sitting by the fire with a good book, spouse or significant other.
Even with our mild winters here in the Dallas Fort Worth area, the Chimney Safety Institute recommends that homeowners who light fires in their fireplaces three or more times a week during the heating season should have their chimneys inspected and cleaned once a year.
If unseasoned wood is burned in the fireplace, twice-a-year cleaning and inspection may be necessary, because unseasoned wood usually burns at a lower temperature than seasoned wood, causing more smoke and therefore more creosote.
Some people assume that because they don’t have fires continuously during the winter, they don’t have to worry too much about creosote buildup. This may be far from the truth. The colder the flue, the greater the condensation, so creosote buildup is the greatest at the beginning of a fire, in the time before the flue has fully heated up.
Fall is the perfect time to start prepping your fireplace for winter. Whether it’s wood-burning, gas or electric, on top of having a professional chimney sweep come out, here are inspecting and cleaning tips to get your fireplace in shape before the winter temperatures hit.
Cleaning a Wood Burning Fireplace
A wood-burning fireplace is by far the dirtiest fireplace there is. With the comfort and coziness of real wood burning comes soot, smoke, dirt, dust, debris — even critters! Plus, it also requires constant maintenance throughout the winter — removing ashes and adding new wood.
Here’s how to prepare and clean your wood-burning fireplace:
1. Give the exterior and interior a good once-over. Take note of any damage and missing or broken parts. Look outside at the exterior of your chimney. Any cracks will need to be repaired.
2. Check the flu for leaves, birds nests and other critters. Shine a flashlight up the chimney via a mirror. If you see anything odd, call a chimney sweep.
3. Assess how much cleaning is needed. If you have layers of ash that are one or more inches thick, you’re in for a dirty job. Cleaning a wood-burning fireplace is a messy task, so old clothing and rubber gloves are necessary. Place a protective drop cloth in front of the fireplace to protect your floors and carpeting from soot. Also, make sure to grab a shovel if your ash bed is high.
4. Remove the layers of ash and debris using a vacuum cleaner (or shovel if necessary). Put it all into a trash bag and place aside.
5. Scrub the fireplace. Using a scrub brush and a bucket full of soapy water, scrub the inside walls and floor of the fireplace. You can also use a mixture of trisodium phosphate (TSP) and water. TSP is a harsh chemical so it should only be used for ultra-dirty jobs. Be sure to wear extra protective gloves and eye protection when handling TSP.
Tip: Don’t scrub too hard on older brick. Doing this might cause it to crumble.
7. Clean fireplace accessories. Screens, fireplace tools and log beds also get dirty and need to be cleaned. You can clean glass screens with a household glass cleaner. Mesh screens can be vacuumed. Tools can be cleaned inside or outdoors; give them a once-over with the scrub brush and soapy water, then spray them off with a hose. If you clean the tools inside, rinse each tool with water in your utility sink or using the spray nozzle in your kitchen sink.
8. Clean your fireplace hearth with a duster or damp rag.
Cleaning a Gas Fireplace
Similar to the way a gas stove generates heat, a gas fireplace consists of an insert (which usually looks like a set of wood logs) and a pilot light that taps into your gas line. If this is the first time you’re using the fireplace since last winter, or the fireplace does not light after a few attempts, you may need to check to make sure the pilot light is lit. If not, light the pilot light.
Take these steps to clean and prepare your gas fireplace for winter:
1. Make sure the gas valve is turned off. Next, check again just to be sure.
2. Inspect for damage. Check the logs, lines, valves and other burner equipment to make sure there isn’t any damage, such as rust, flaking, or cracked or chipped logs.
3. Remove the gas log insert and dust it with a dry rag. You can also vacuum (using the crevice tool) it if there are nooks and crannies that you can’t reach with a rag. Another idea is to use a soft paint brush to brush away the dirt. Be gentle cleaning the insert, as the logs are usually fragile.
4. Use a vacuum to clean inside the fireplace, removing any dirt or spider webs that might have collected over the seasons. Place the insert carefully back inside the firebox.
5. Clean both sides of the glass with a window cleaner and then wipe the exterior with a damp cloth or a duster.
6. Take a look at the vents. If your gas fireplace is vented, use a flashlight to check (the vents are located at the top of the unit) and make sure there are no blockages. This is especially important because if there is something blocking the gas from escaping, dangerous carbon monoxide fumes could enter your home.
7. Test your fireplace to make sure that it is working properly. Turn the gas back on and light the pilot light. If the pilot light is out or the fireplace is not working properly, call a technician.
Cleaning an Electric Fireplace
Electric fireplaces are very easy to clean and maintain, which makes them appealing to homeowners. There’s no need to worry about logs or soot because freestanding electric fireplaces and electric fireplace inserts do not have actual flames. They run strictly on electricity, plugging right into your electrical outlet.
Take the following steps to prepare your electric fireplace for winter:
1. Check the electrical components (any wires or plugs) to ensure that they’re in good working order. If anything seems worn or frayed, consult a professional to replace or repair the damage.
2. Dust the interior and remove any debris that could become a fire hazard. Use a vacuum cleaner if necessary. Unused fireplaces get dusty just like every other surface in your home. If your fireplace has brass accents, clean those with soap and water or something acidic like a vinegar-and-salt mixture (you can even try mild Tabasco or Worcestershire sauce). Clean both sides of the glass enclosure with a glass cleaner of your choice, and dust electrical components gently.
3. Plug the fireplace in and test it to make sure that it is working properly. If not, investigate the problem by plugging another electrical item into the same outlet. If there is no power to that device, this might be an electrical issue and you’ll need to consult with an electrician.
Now, all you have to do is wait for the cold weather so you can curl up by the fire with a cup of hot chocolate!

Fall Chores Can Be Healthy

It’s time for the Fall season, which means the annual chores need to be done. Many of us put these chores off as long as possible. From raking, to cleaning the house, to splitting firewood, to getting ready for the holidays, these tasks need to get done. Many of these fall chores are physically exhausting. But, depending on your health, they can also be a great form of exercise and calorie burners.
Here are some healthy reasons why fall chores can help you get some exercise.
Raking Leaves – on average burns 280 calories per hour.
Whether you have to rake leaves or grass clippings from your lawn, this chore is exactly that – a chore. However, raking is a great aerobic exercise that uses upper body strength and back muscles.
Splitting & Chopping Firewood: 400-500 calories per hour
This activity is very physical and works almost every muscle of your body. From squatting to get the wood, to stacking and chopping, you are working various groups and getting a good aerobic workout. Be sure to take precautions (safety) wear gloves and take breaks.
Fall Gardening: 200 -250 calories per hour
In some areas, gardening is still growing strong. In others, fall gardening chores might include cleaning out the garden for next year. Pulling out plants, weeds, as well as planting spring bulbs all burn calories and exercise your body.
Cleaning the House: 200-230 calories per hour.
Forget spring cleaning, there are many holidays in the fall that require some cleaning for guests, decorations and more. There are various levels of housecleaning, but for purposes here we’re talking moderate cleaning of many different household tasks. (Put some music on in the background and you might make this cleaning workout a bit more effective.)
*Calories burned based on an average 145-pound person.
On my next Post, I’ll give the fall chores that need to be accomplished to keep your lawn and landscaping looking good in the fall and through the winter.

Hidden Reason to Get a Home Inspection

Just another example of why you should get a home inspection prior to spending your hard earned money on your dream home. As you can see by the picture, a shoddy repair job would have given a few clues something wasn’t right. As a buyer of a house, what would you have done next?

Part of my passion as a Dallas and Fort Worth area home inspector is to get to the bottom of little things that others wouldn’t think to observe. My first move was to look at different areas located around this particular area, ie, laundry room, bathroom, etc. When looking in a very small linen closet next to this room I came across another ceiling issue the present homeowner failed to look at or hide and the next pic shows what I had found.

As you can see, we got a little growth going on. Although the growth hasn’t been tested for mold yet, we can come to our own conclusions. So we know this is a moisture problem and the next step is to isolate where the moisture was coming from. Above the area in the attic, there was only the vent pipe for the dryer coming up through the ceiling and going up and discharging through the roof. As you can see by the next picture, someone definitely had come and repaired a previous leak from the dryer vent that penetrated through the roof.

Of course none of these issues were listed on the homeowner disclosure statement. Most things I find that have been previously repaired aren’t on a disclosure statement as expected by the report itself. When we removed some insulation from this area, the issue was extending through 4 different rooms and just a new fresh coat of paint was covering it up.
If your planning on buying a home, new or used, and don’t have the construction experience to inspect yourself, you owe it to yourself to get a home inspection from a quality home inspector.

Draining a Water Heater

Very few homeowners realize the need to drain a few gallons of water from your water heater twice a year. Regardless of the type of water heater you have, gas or electric, water heaters can develop a build up of sediment at the bottom of the tank. This build up can cause the water heater to operate inefficiently, shortening the life span of the appliance. Prior to draining water from your tank, you need to understand the proper way and safety concerns of performing this task. It is very important that when you are doing this maintenance to your water heater, you make sure the appliance is turned off and that you protect yourself from a potential burn. Turn the water heater off for at least an hour to reduce the temperature. Wear thick gloves, long sleeves, and safety goggles, and do not touch the water draining out of the tank.
There are two valves on your water heater. The one near the top is a safety valve that release pressure – DON’T TOUCH IT. The one near the bottom is for draining and the only one that should be opened for this purpose. Connect a hose (garden hose) to the water heater drain valve and set it to drain into a sink, or to drain outside where it can not hurt anyone. Once the drain is safely in place, turn the valve counter clockwise to open the drain. Remember the water is going to be very hot! In a few gallons, the water will become clear as the sediment washes out. Close the valve by turning clockwise and make sure you close it completely so there are no drips. Turn the water heater back on and task is done.

The Truth About Replacing Windows

I’ve listened to some outrageous claims from window replacement companies. The usual sales tactic is how much return on your investment by replacing your windows you’ll get. The fact of the matter is the new windows could take anywhere from 13 to 20 years to receive your investment back. Unfortunately, a lot of consumers believe the window company’s claims. I hear this myth repeated many times while doing home inspections throughout the Dallas and Fort Worth areas.
Don’t get me wrong, new windows can be a very good thing, but it miffs me just a bit that a vast amount of dealers in the market try to hype the return to make it sound as if your investment will be recouped in no time at all.
When it comes to our hot climate in the Dallas Fort Worth areas, with the best energy efficient window, you can control the temperature within your home and make the space cooler during hot summer days. The right windows will allow sunlight to pass through, but block heat, helping you save both energy and money on air conditioning.
Follow the tips below when choosing the type of energy efficient windows that work best in hot climates.
Selecting Window Frames
The type of window frames you use will have a great impact on the energy efficiency of your windows. Frames may be made of several different materials, including aluminum, fiberglass, vinyl and wood. Aluminum frames, though widely used in modern construction, are the least energy efficient. Fiberglass frames are moderately efficient. Wood and Vinyl frames are highly efficient. Wood frames are costlier while vinyl frames are affordable.
Window Glasses for Energy Efficiency
The glass panels contributes to the energy efficiency of a window. There are 3 factors to consider for the types of glass:
■Visible transmission (VT)
■Solar Heat Gain coefficient (SHGC)
■U-value
VT is the amount of sunlight that is transmitted through the glass, while SHGC is the fraction of total solar heat that can pass through the glass. U-Value is a measure of transfer of heat through the glass through conduction, convection and radiation.
Glasses with high VT allow significant daylight into the house thereby reducing the necessity of lights during daytime and hence help in saving energy. The recommended value for VT is 60 to 80 percent. For hot climates SHGC must be as low as possible. Glasses with low SHGC let a lesser fraction of solar heat into the house and thus help in saving the air-conditioning bills. SHGC of below 0.40 is recommended for places with hot climates. The glasses with low U-Value is recommended for all climates.
Use of Multi-Pane Glasses
Single pane glasses are highly inefficient and no more used. Use of double or triple pane glass is recommended for energy efficiency. The vacuum created between different panes of multi-pane windows is what causes insulation and hence helps in saving energy.
Low Emissive Glasses
Low emissive glass panes are also used to improve energy efficiency. Low emissivity glass has a coating of metallic oxide layer on the inner side. The low emissive coating prevents heat transfer between panes i.e. from glass of high temperature to the glass of lower temperature. For places with hot climates, the low-e coating needs to be applied to the inner side of the outermost pane. Low solar gain low emissive glasses reduce the incoming heat and form the best energy efficient windows for hot climates.
Beyond that, replacement windows have value that adds up in ways other then energy savings. The Curb appeal of your home, in your mind and those of prospective buyers might be greatly increase with the addition of any of the many readily available replacement window styles. Come sale time, those dollars invested can have a substantial return.
Warm-Climate Window Tips on saving extra money from energy loss
•Install white window shades, drapes, or blinds to reflect heat away from the house.
•Close curtains on south- and west-facing windows during the day.
•Install awnings on south- and west-facing windows.
•Apply sun-control or other reflective films on south-facing windows to reduce solar gain

Keeping Your Children Safe During Playtime

When I decided to become a home inspector, I got into a habit of inspecting things everywhere I went. I honestly cannot help myself anymore, it’s just what I do. Being a father and just loving kids in general, I started noticing things when I would go to playgrounds in the Arlington, Mansfield and Burleson areas with my own kids or with my nieces and nephews that worried me about their safety. I recently pulled some information from the CDC website I thought I would share to remind parents of how important it is to keep you children safe from serious injury.
According to the Centers for Disease Control:

Playground Injuries
Each year, more than 200,000 children in the U.S. are treated in emergency rooms for playground-related injuries.
About 75% of all non-fatal playground-related injuries occur on public playgrounds, mostly at schools and daycare centers.
Playground-related injuries cost an estimated $1.2 billion in 1995.
Girls are more prone to playground-related injuries than boys (55% to 45%, respectively).
The most at-risk age group for playground-related injuries are children ages 5 to 9.
Swings are responsible for the most injuries on home playgrounds, while climbing apparatus is the most dangerous equipment on public playgrounds.
Playgrounds in low-income areas in New York City have more maintenance-related hazards than those in high-income neighborhoods. For example, trash, rusty play equipment, and damaged fall surfaces were found to be more common in poorer communities than in wealthy areas.
We all want to keep our children safe and secure and help them live to their full potential. Knowing how to prevent leading causes of child injury, like falls, is a step toward this goal.
Falls are the leading cause of non-fatal injuries for all children ages 0 to 19. Every day, approximately 8,000 children are treated in U.S. emergency rooms for fall-related injuries. This adds up to almost 2.8 million children each year.
Thankfully, many falls can be prevented, and parents and caregivers can play a key role in protecting children.
PREVENTION TIPS

The following are tips that can be used to prevent children from sustaining injuries related to falls:
Play safely. Check to make sure playground equipment your child uses is properly designed and maintained and there’s a safe, soft landing surface below.
Make home safety improvements. Use home safety devices, such as guards on windows that are above ground level, stair gates, and guard rails. These devices can help keep a busy, active child from taking a dangerous tumble.
Keep sports safe. Make sure your child wears protective gear when playing active sports, such as wrist guards, knee and elbow pads, and a helmet when in-line skating.
Supervision is key. Supervise young children at all times around fall hazards, such as stairs and playground equipment, whether you’re at home or out to play.
• Across the United States, injuries are the leading cause of death among children ages 19 and younger.
• About 33 children die every day because of injuries.
• Each year, nearly 9.2 million children aged 0 to 19 years are seen in emergency departments for injuries, and 12,175 children die as a result of being injured.

In addition to doing all you can to protect a child from being injured because of a fall, follow these steps to prevent other leading causes of injuries:

Burns —Fire and scalding water can pose threats to children. To help keep kids safer from burns caused by fire, install and maintain smoke alarms in your home.
Drownings —Drownings can happen quickly and quietly, but installing four-sided fences, with self-closing and self-latching gates, around backyard swimming pools can make a life-saving difference by keeping kids away from the water when you’re not there to supervise.
Poisonings —Everyday household products can be poisonous to children, but you can safeguard your home. Keep medicines and toxic products, such as cleaning solutions, in locked or childproof cabinets.
Road traffic injuries

—To make injuries less likely when you’re on the road with kids, always use seat belts, child safety seats, and booster seats that are appropriate for your child’s age and weight.

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning-Is Your Family Safe?

If you have fuel burning appliances in your home, you owe it to your family to have CO detectors installed. Carbon monoxide detectors are great devices to use when fuel-burning appliances are used in the home. They can be very useful for keeping watch on the CO levels in the home.
Carbon monoxide (CO) can be a sneaky killer, it’s colorless, odorless, poisonous gas that forms from incomplete combustion of fuels, such as natural or liquefied petroleum gas, oil, wood or coal.
• 170 people on average in the United States die every year from CO produced by non-automotive consumer products. These products include malfunctioning fuel-burning appliances such as ranges, water heaters, furnaces and room heaters; engine-powered equipment such as portable generators; fireplaces; and charcoal that is burned in homes and other enclosed areas.
What are the symptoms of CO poisoning?
Because CO is odorless, colorless, and otherwise undetectable to the human senses, people may not know that they are being exposed. The initial symptoms of low to moderate CO poisoning are similar to the flu, but without the fever.
They include:
Headache
Fatigue
Shortness of breath
Nausea
Dizziness
High level CO poisoning results in progressively more severe symptoms, including:
Mental confusion
Vomiting
Loss of muscular coordination
Loss of consciousness
Ultimately death
The severity of the symptom is related to both the CO level and the duration of exposure. For slowly developing CO problems within the home, occupants and/or physicians can mistake mild to moderate CO poisoning symptoms for the flu, which sometimes results in tragic deaths. For rapidly developing, high level CO exposures, the victims can rapidly become mentally confused, and can lose muscle control without having first experienced milder symptoms; they will likely die if not rescued.
•Many experts believe that CO poisoning statistics understate the problem. Because the symptoms of CO poisoning mimic a range of common health ailments, it is likely that a large number of mild to mid-level exposures are never identified, diagnosed, or accounted for in any way in carbon monoxide statistics.
•Out of all reported non-fire carbon-monoxide incidents, 89% or almost nine out of 10 of them take place in a home.
Handling a CO emergency
Let’s say you and your family are home when the CO detector goes off. What do you need to do in a situation when you notice the CO levels rising in your home? A CO detector will sound in the same way as a smoke alarm alerting residents to evacuate the premises. A detector with a low level indicator is recommended because it is more sensitive to any rise in CO, no matter how slight. It can best prevent residents from developing carbon monoxide poisoning.
If the alarm signal sounds do not try to find the source of the CO:
Immediately move outside to fresh air.
Call your emergency services, fire department, or 911.
After calling 911, do a head count to check that all persons are accounted for. DO NOT reenter the premises until the emergency services responders have given you permission. You could lose consciousness and die if you go in the home.
If the source of the CO is determined to be a malfunctioning appliance, DO NOT operate that appliance until it has been properly serviced by trained personnel.